Before we get into Haiti, many followers would have noticed a distinct lack of posting lately. This is because we had to cut our travels short and return home. So we are currently back in Australia, Jill has found work and we have set up in in the seaside town of Bargara (just east of Bundaberg).

Those closest to us or those that we have seen know the reason but for those that have not spoken to…we ran into some ESTA (visa) issues in the USA.

While doing our bounce around Mexico, the States and south and central American nations we received some messages on email, from the US Immigration, with a link showing the requirement for us to leave the country. As we received these emails while sitting in various towns and cities in Mexico, Jamaica (or in this case) even Haiti, we were somewhat perplexed.

Our forays throughout the region saw us arriving to the USA and hanging for between 1-4 days before we left again on a cruise ship to visit the broader region. Given that we were leaving the USA every week, we believed that we were fully compliant with the ESTA conditions.

Alas, this all came to a head when we got off a cruise ship in Fort Lauderdale and were directed into a side room, rather than the usual face recognition border checkpoint. At this point we were advised that we had overstayed our ESTA by 43 days (based on the day that we first entered the USA back in November). They advised us that a condition of the ESTA was that we needed to leave the country.

At this point I mentioned that we were in Haiti yesterday, and Jamaica the day before, and that neither of those were in the USA and therefore we had left their country. This is when we were told that because a cruise ship starts and ends at the same port, it is classified as a closed loop, no matter where else it goes to, and does not count as leaving the country.

This at least made the random emails make sense. After some back and forth it was clear that there was no malice or intention to overstay on our behalf. But the reality was that we had, and they then gave us the news that we would need to leave the country.

We had another cruise or two booked (which we had to miss – and lose the money for) but we were allowed to leave of our own accord and were not dragged off to any form of ICE detention centre. So from the cruise terminal we were due to catch a train for the next cruise but instead opted to head to the airport and depart.

A few monster transits and we had gone from Fort Lauderdale to Toronto to Vancouver to Singapore. We then stopped for a breath and made a plan. THe plan involved going to visit Brad and Nora in the Philippines before popping over to Phnom Penh for a week. Then heading to Sydney to visit Jimmy and Claudia (with a visit from Mike and Patricia) , before heading to Brisbane to see the family and another breath.

Anyway, drama over, lets talk about Haiti.

Country #95 Country & Territory # 132

The population of Haiti is almost entirely descended from enslaved African people. It won its independence from France in 1804 but over the centuries economic, political, and social difficulties along with natural disasters have left Haiti with an ineffective government, chronic poverty and serious gang problems.

In 2010 an earthquake killed over a quarter of a million people in less than a minute, leaving about 1.5 million homeless. This was followed by a cholera epidemic then a series of alternating hurricanes, earthquakes or flooding, every year or two.

The democratically elected President was assassinated in 2021 so the Prime Minister took control and failed to hold elections multiple times (claiming it was due to logistical problems or violence). By the time he announced a further postponement until 2025 the violence took over. According to a report by the U.N. more than 8,400 people were killed, injured or kidnapped in 2023.

Armed groups have attacked airports, police stations, sea ports, the Central Bank and the country’s national soccer stadium. The two main prisons were raided, leading to the escape of about 4,000 prisoners.

To set the scene, the Australian Government travel advisory website (Smart Traveller) recommends that we… Do not travel to Haiti due to the dangerous security situation, threat of violent crime, kidnapping and severe shortages of basic necessities including fuel, water and food.

On the weekend that we were the gang leader’s child was sick, so obviously he blamed it on those that practice voodoo. So the only real option that he had was to kill over 180 people who practised voodoo.

In late December gang members looted, then destroyed and finally set fire to the only trauma hospital in the country. Millions of dollars of life-saving resources are gone. The first day, they threw Molotov cocktails over the wall burning a lot of it, the next day, despite the police, trying to defend it, they overwhelmed and jumped over the wall and began to ravage and pillage and steal everything. They stole microscopes (which is ridiculous because they don’t know how to use them and there is nowhere to sell them). They broke everything they couldn’t carry out, destroying millions of dollars worth of monitors, microscopes, operating, imaging and ICU equipment.

Any way you try and dress it up, Haiti is one of the most broken countries on the planet. Sadly, it is also one of the prettiest. If they could actually get their shit together it would easily rival and surpass many of its Caribbean neighbours.

In real terms (for all of the above reasons) we didn’t really experience Haiti, but we did land on the island of Hispaniola, in the area owned and controlled by Haiti. But what we REALLY saw was a place called Labadee.

Labadee is a 260-acre, entirely manufactured, private resort on the northern part of the island. It was leased to Royal Caribbean in 1985 by the government of Haiti (under the leadership of the dictator Jean-Claude “Baby Doc” Duvalier). This lease was later extended to 2050.

The resort is completely tourist-oriented and is guarded by a private security force. The site is doubly fenced off from the surrounding area; passengers cannot leave the property and locals cannot enter. Food available to tourists is brought from the cruise ships. A controlled group of Haitian merchants are given sole rights to sell merchandise and establish their businesses in the resort.

This private bay and port of call is worth a trip but can only be accessed if you are on a cruise that includes Labadee on its itinerary. It is a beautiful place known for its beaches, crystal clear waters, artisanal market, and the ‘Dragon’s Breath’ (the world’s longest over-water zipline).

There are also plenty of water activities and tours available like fishing charters, luxury sailboat trips, snorkeling excursions, and catamaran cruises. Maximize your day by hopping on the free tram to get around. December through April are good months to visit for pleasant weather.

Dragon’s Breath is a thrilling zipline adventure where you race down a 2,600-foot flight line while sitting up, enjoying stunning views and landing at Dragon’s Breath Rock. On the other hand, Dragon’s Fire Zipline takes you on a sky-high adventure as you race head-first like “Superman” along 2,800 feet of cable over the ocean, offering a different route and perspective of Labadee’s beautiful scenery. Dragons Breath Zipline – Enjoy stunning views as you zip down a 2,600-foot flight line at speeds of 40 to 50 mph, landing at Dragon’s Breath Rock.

Attractions include a Haitian flea market, beaches, watersports, a water-oriented playground, an alpine coaster, and the largest zip-line over water.

If you could actually get into Haiti proper, there are some nice things to see. Some of these include:

The mountaintop fortress was built to demonstrate the power of the independent Haiti (1804) and to protect its citizens if the French attempted to retake the nation.

The 100,000 square foot building includes several cisterns and storehouses, designed to provide enough food and water for the royal family and up to 5000 people to survive an entire year under siege. The Citadel is equipped with over 150 cannons – mostly captured in battle from the English, the French and the Spanish – and thousands of cannon balls, once over 50,000 in total. With such an armoury and walls over 13 feet wide and 100 feet high, the fortress was impenetrable.

The Palace was built as a residence for the revolutionary leader (Henri Christophe), who would become king in 1811. The palace was one of many lavish constructions commissioned shortly after independence.

Long story short, Haiti is a stunning Caribbean paradise destination that is just too dangerous to come to. The people understand their issues and plead for the tourists to come and spend their money, but the corruption, gangs and violence means that it will not happen. The adventurous side of me really wants to come and explore more fully, but the self-preservation side will continue to win.